Showing posts with label sarum blue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sarum blue. Show all posts

Friday, October 7, 2016

Sarum Blue is at once most blue and also....violet


Sarum Blue has been a controversial subject.  We have been commissioned a couple of times to make something in that Liturgical Colour... and as always, we at Klave Centesca try to do a certain degree of  research before embarking on any project.  It is always good to learn new things!

Turns out we see this meme all the time out there:

 

And yes, it has been posted in reference to our blue vestments:


So let's go down the rabbit hole:


 
  Yes, these are three chasubles depicted in manuscripts ranging between the 10th and 15c., and yes they are quite blue.  Are they Sarum?  No, but the important thing is that they ARE blue.. ultramarine blue in the first two images, to be exact, which is the pigment often used in those days to achieve this colour from the painstaking process of grinding the mineral lapis lazuli.  

 

The other choice of blue pigment was made out of cobalt... both rather bright, definitive, shades of blue.  


But... it is true... the ordines and rubrics of the Church don't generally consider blue as a liturgical colour... yet it appears not just in chasubles... but also in the form of copes:


And then, also in the form of choir dress: are certain of these cardinals wearing blue cappa magnas?


Are these French Prelates all in blue choir dress too?


Well, it's not some conspiracy.  Turns out, the French Prelates are all Bishops - they are actually wearing violet mozettas (aka camails, in French) lined in amaranth red as prescribed for their hierarchy to this day... just that in painting, back before acrylics and oils came in tubes, blue was still made out of ground lapis and smelt and other proprietary recipes...and was used to "depict" the prescribed "violaceus" hues of the church.  

 

Yes, that is how in this beautiful images of a papal chapels, processions and consistories, there are red Cardinals and a few "blue" prelates too:

 
  

And just as art imitates life... eventually, life imitates art.  This is an extant Halberstadt blue chasuble from the 13c. Keeping in mind that textile colours do fade with time.

  

But if textiles fade, certainly the stained glass windows and illuminated manuscripts that are part of our collective patrimony, culture and memory, do not.  So to those who question the existence of Sarum blue... and then it's bright incarnations as royal, azure, lapis and cobalt... well... look at the rubrics and when is it used: Advent... when violet is called for... and look at the evidence above where these bright blues are used to depict whatever the church prescribes as violet in art: from the choir dress of bishops, to the court dress of domestic prelates of the pope, and vestments in places outside the use of Sarum where "blue" is not an option but violet always is.  Sarum blue is not an anomaly.  And these bright hues, end up closely resembling the historical ultramarine obtained from the lapis.

 
 Hence. voila!
Sarum blue is at once most blue, and also... violet. Technically.
:)



Here are links to two of our featured blue sets, if you'd like to revisit them:








Friday, September 23, 2016

Sarum Blue Vestments Inspired by The Stained-Glass Windows behind the Altar

We've just finished and delivered this Chasuble, Maniple and Stoles in Sarum Blue in readiness  for Advent at the Chapel of Saint Andrew.

As with all projects, it began with a sketch after discussing fabrics and trims in the range of colours appropriate for the season.  The measurements we already had from a previous project:


One must only look at the beautiful stained glass windows, where the vestments will be worn, to realize that it is a perfect choice for its setting.  To harmonize with the velvet altar frontal that the church already owned, a matching blue hanging has been projected:


Also, keeping in mind the other traditional colour of the season, as well as the pre-existing altar hangings,  the lati-clavi running up and down the front and back of the chasuble are in imperial-purple velvet.  To frame these velvet orphreys, we've used an antique-gold galloon.


Beneath the chasuble you can see the Priestly Stole and Maniple, which have the further addition of a lush gold fringe.


To match, a Deaconal Stole was also made:


This stole has our now signature angled shape with appliqued roundels through which slides a cord with tassel that keeps the front and back together.  The cord easily slides to accommodate the deacon's needs.


These vestments were made thanks to the generous donation of a parishioner and close collaboration between Father Charles, and us, here at Klave Centesca!  May they serve the altar of God and the community ministered there for many years!