A Chalice Pall Original

Last December we had the honour to work on a Chalice Pall for Canon Francis Altiere of the Institute of Christ the King in Kansas.  This is a square of linen stiffened with board which is used to cover the chalice while it is at the altar.  This prevents foreign objects (which can range from pieces of plaster from the ceiling to gnats, or even the strong aroma of the incense) mixing with its contents.  As with everything connected with the honour and glory due to God, it is fitting to render it as beautifully as our humble hands and imaginations can manage.  This is the result of our latest efforts:

It was a special piece since we worked on it through the Feast of the Expectation (also called "Maria de la O" because of the "Oh-Antiphons" sung that week) which is the octave preceding Christmas.  It paralleled the labors of the Virgin Mary and by the 25th, as the new-born King was celebrated, so too His name had already been embellished with these pearls on Wisdom in the pall.


Aptly, it reached Canon Altiere in time to be used for the Epiphany. You can see images of the celebration at the Old Saint Patrick's Oratory facebook page.

We would like to share our process towards making our one of a kind pieces when we are commissioned here at Klave Centesca.

We usually have an initial communication to understand the purpose, place, and circumstances for which the work is required.  Sometimes it is the look of a chalice, style of an altarpiece or time period which sparks the imagination.

The image is then translated into a couple of design options.  In this case, we had discussed a sunburst with the IHS in the center, perhaps embellished with some pearls:

From the initial choices, we have a starting point to tweak the design further.  We always aim at creating a one of a kind piece.  

Once digitized, we discussed a few other options and came up with these further variants after settling for the "Romanic" border with pearls.

 

Then which trim to choose?

And finally after we convene on the final details, the piece is finished. 

The Chalice Pall with Pearl Embroidery in white Linen and Gold commissioned by Canon Francis Altiere, Christmas 2017

Picking and choosing from the different options is always a possibility, as in this case Canon Altiere suggested using the same metal flowers he had seen on a mitre we did a couple of years ago but without the embroidered rosettes:

 As you can see, this is why we always call our pieces a collaboration.  Coming up with something extraordinary is our mission, but greater things always come out when we work together with you.

Be mindful that all the other unrealized designs are still available to commission, all you have to take is the first step and contact us by writing to info@klavecentesca.com 

Happy New Year to All! 

May Christ's Light Shine on All.

 

 

Pontifical Gloves

Pontifical Gauntlets are one of those things we do not see too many of these days... so we are always happy when we have the opportunity to make some.  These pairs are on their way to Hungary.  We couldn't wait any longer to share the story though, since it highlights what we enjoy doing best: learning about history and making new things which can relate to the past so traditions survive at least on our watch.

Pontifical Gloves by Klave Centesca With Embroidered Gauntlet Cuff inspired by Hungarian Coronation Chasuble

The purple ones we hinted at before on social media, and here they are:

The design of the cuff, because they were made for the Hungarian Church, we thought it would be nice to find inspiration in some of their beautiful vestments from the past.  Looking through the various collections, we found this:

Chasuble used at the Coronations of Hungarian Kings 

It is a gold chasuble embroidered with tiny seed pearls using the traditional Hungarian tulips motif.  It even has amethysts and other jewels running down the centre - making it quite literally, a "planeta pretiosa" or precious chasuble which begs the question: where is the matching precious mitre?!

The said chasuble is unlikely to be worn with the pontifical gauntlets we have made at Klave Centesca, but if we had to find inspiration, where best?  Instead of pearl embroidery, we have used the raised goldwork which is more traditional for these liturgical gloves worn at pontifical masses, and we are quite happy with the effect of them.  But with custom work... the possibilities are quite endless.

Here's a couple of different projects from the past:

Pontifical Gauntlets with English Roses, French Fleurs and Canadian Maple Leaves 

Pontifical Gloves with a Jesuit Sun.

And a guide to some of the styles:

Does your bishop have pontifical gloves?

The dragon slaying days are never over

It began a couple of months ago with The Word... well, at least it was then that we heard word of the need of a new chasuble for the upcoming ordination of the Rev Michael Sahdev as priest.  There were a couple of discussions, emails back and forth, and then we readied our vision for his approval.

From there,  we discussed the the measurements and convened on a choice of fabric.

The design was nearly ready, except perhaps, refining the details of the chalice motif for the centre of the chasuble.  The chalice and paten/host are the symbol of the Eucharistic ministry of a new priest and the service he performs in command and commemoration of Our Lord in that rite we know as The Mass. Michael had seen patches with embroidered chalices before... but we imagined something unlike what is done elsewhere these days.  The image was in the mind... then out into a quick sketch, and a request for a little faith, as always, for the cartoon of the design can't compare to what we know it can become.

So off to the works: engineering three-dimensional forms in a computer so they become fabric and thread - easier said than done.

The head is too small to get a good likeness.... so what if we take a bead of ivory and carve it?  Done.
Saint Michael's head of nobler material could not be.  And the priest-to-be worried, "what if it falls off?"  But nothing many rows of thread - and yes, a bit of jeweler's glue too - could not secure.  It shall be attached still a hundred and two, and three hundred years from now, when we are all gone and it is used by another priest, or enshrined in a cathedral museum somewhere.  These vestments are to serve not just at the altar, but as testament of our sacred arts, our devotion and represent the customs and the culture of our times.  Should someone forget how and in what regard religion was held in our days, they should see this and trust in our resolve, our witness of the faith was deliberate, and steady, and respectful.  This is our witness.

So along came the halo and the wings, and the dragon at his feet (with a little forked tongue hanging to the side, for the devil is slain, defeated, pierced by the archangel's spear and no longer cause for fear as the story goes).

And there were pearls, as the clouds upon which the fight of good and evil once ensued.  And then a shrine to protect its memory and encapsulate it, for this chapter described in the tiny scene, dynamic and symbolic, is but part of a larger mystery: that of the chalice and host which represent the blood and body of Christ.

The little shrine takes the place of the knob which is ubiquitous in the chalices used in the Christian liturgies.  In the medieval and Renaissance periods there are instances of this, so Gothic gables and forms were used to harmonize the whole.

Issuing from the chalice and host are rays of light of gold, for they represent the covenant of our salvation by following the precepts of Christ: foremost of which is to drink the wine and eat the bread in memory of Him.

Here we see Father Michael during the celebration of his first mass and perhaps the symbolism is clearer than ever.  While he consecrates the bread and wine at the altar, the design on his chasuble is a visible symbol of the salvific mystery being carried out in the said consecration.

As chalices go, it is apt that he was given a token one by the Bishop during the ordination, and a real one by the members of the Vestry of the church where he was baptised, confirmed, and worshiped until this Saturday when he was ordained at the Cathedral and returned to the church for his first mass.

We hope he wears this chasuble on every anniversary of his ordination and be reminded not just then, but every time he  has to vest it, of the weighty office and tasks, but also the great honour of serving as the agent of salvation for the faithful and even those who perhaps do not yet belief - but attracted by the shine of the chalice, the beauty of our religion which is designed to echo the Holy! Holy!Holy! chanted in heaven, be instructed into its deeper meaning, and the reason of its being.

May your patron in the little shrine, Saint Michael the Archangel, guard and protect you, Father, and may he help you defeat the evils of the world so that the mystery of salvation contained in the chalice be accessible to all. Thank you for allowing Klave Centesca the opportunity to add to the treasures of Our shared Christian faith for now and posterity, and may the Peace of the Lord remain always with you.

The Legend on the design reads: IHS : MICHAEL + PRIEST + JUN 3 + A.D. 2017 + as testament of the day it was first used.    So as we say back home: Ad multos annos!

DOVE WINGS

When making a new vestment set for this past Pentecost, we were asked to embroider a dove.   Here again, we went around and looked for inspiration at samples from the past.  Who could forget Bernini's Window at Saint Peter's Basilica in the Vatican, above?

We also thought to be adventurous, and try out an idea.  How about making it as though it was issuing forth - flying out of the dalmatic's chest as The Word of The Gospel pours out during the readings of the Mass by the deaconal minister?

So we gave it a go.  It is called stump-work embroidery - and it refers to the stuffed, three-dimensional pieces of needlework which only a handful of artists and artisans still produce today.

The most famous piece, perhaps, still being the Lord Chancellor's Purse used for the State Opening Of Parliament in the United Kingdom.

So that is how our Dove got its wings.  May the Holy Spirit pour forth through it, and fill with blessings those who hear the Gospels.