OF MITRES AND MEN III

Today we shall take a look at the middling mitres: the auriphrygiate types.  These are differenced from the precious mitres, essentially, in the lack of jewels - which renders them lighter in weight and thus more comfortable to wear for extended periods of time.

They are also sometimes called golden mitres, because in their simplest of forms, they are merely made of golden cloth without further ornamentation... well, maybe the arms of the owner embroidered on the infulae such as those pictured by JP Sonnen over at Orbis Catholicus that once belonged to Cardinal Siri (something we at Klave Centesca love being able to do for Bishops, Archbishops, Cardinals and Pope with quality like that of yesteryear!  But made in the USA, today.)

The name of Auriphrygiata, though, comes from the fact that Phrygia was famous for its golden embroideries back in Roman times.  These would have been of scrolling foliages or figural, and were highly priced - adorning the purple toga of the triumphant generals and later the robes of the imperial family.  In time, the church was endowed with donations bearing these gold needleworks in the style of Phrygia, and eventually, herself began commissioning paraments and vestments with such ornamentation.

One of the earliest extant auriphrygiate mitres are those which depict the martyrdom of Saint Lawrence and Saint Thomas Becket:

These would have been used on the patronal feasts of the saints depicted, since for such occasions it was usual to have processions and long liturgies in which lighter mitres could be employed.

Toledo, according to its own traditions, still uses one for Requiems and other occasions (for which the Roman Rite only allows the Mitra Simplex in white) which depicts the crucifixion:

Mitres with whole scenes embroidered on them were once fairly common.  France certainly has some of the most beautiful examples.  This one, in the Musee de Cluny today, has scenes of the Nativity and is one of our favorite:

Others, rather than having whole scenes, show just the iconic representation of a Saint, Martyr, Virgin or Jesus himself - usually with their respective attributes.  Here are some worthy of note:

Then, there are those that depict a cross, a dove or other symbols.

Lastly, as with the case of the precious mitres, we end up with the veritable gardens that became popular from the 1700s to the 1900s.  This example, in polychrome flowers from Germany is quite striking:

Something else to note is that these "garden" mitres generally use a multitude of colors in their embroideries, while only gold is used in the Mitra Pretiosa for flowers and foliage - which need to better showcase the colored jewels sewn onto the fabric.

We hope you have enjoyed the small selection of embroidered mitres.  We are currently working on a couple of mitres inspired by some of these seen here which will be put up for auction.  Also, if you want something spectacular, you know how to reach us.  From a simple coat of arms on the infulae to something more elaborate - we do love a challenge here at Klave Centesca!

As a sample, here's the mitre inspired by the beautiful rose window tracery at the Basilica of Our Lady in Guelph, Canada, that we embroidered with the arms of Bishop Ustrzycky as a gift from one of his parishioners, our friend Massimo Marcone:

And a monochromatic auriphrygiate version in the works, to be auctioned off once we finish putting it together:

Blessings to all!

Obtaining a New Coat of Arms & Americans' Right to Freely Do So.

Today we would like to highlight one of the services we provide.  Namely, the design of new coats of arms for prelates of the Catholic, Episcopal, Lutheran and other denominations, who in virtue of their office, are entitled to assume coats of arms in the United States, distinguished by the ecclesiastical hat, crosier or mitre, as may be the particular case.

In the U.S., all free citizens are allowed to assume arms.   This fact goes beyond a discussion of the Second Amendment of the Constitution which states "the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed" which is more generally referred to in political discussions of a different nature - about firearms primarily - which will not be entered here.

A coat of arms, however, does stem from a tradition in which a shield was wielded as a defensive weapon.  In the class-conscious societies prior to the American Revolution of 1776, these were the exclusive right of a privileged few only: royalty, the titled nobility and the lower nobility.  Merchants, farmers, burgers and peasants were generally excluded from the right of this sort of defensive weapon: the shield.  In some societies, like the Netherlands, Switzerland, and even France, some individuals were allowed arms albeit not belonging to the nobility.   These were called "armes roturiers" for yeomen and "burgher arms" when borne by common citizens.

It is this latter type of arms which all Americans are by law, entitled to assume.  Why assume?  Because unlike in England, Scotland or Canada - where the respective Colleges of Arms GRANTS you a coat of arms- in places where no authority holds that monopoly, arms are ASSUMED by the interested party.

To be fair, today the process of obtaining a blazon is less restrictive in Queen Elizabeth II's realms than in yesteryear.  Whereas before one needed to prove to be a descendant with a proper claim to bear the arms once granted to an ancestor, or via a special grace from the monarch to  even be eligible, today, any subject of those respective realms  can apply for a new design.  If you are a subject to one of these Kingdoms: that is still the only way to sport a coat of arms.  It also doesn't guarantee that your application will be accepted.

Prelates, from a simple chaplain to the Popes themselves, are also by tradition entitled to use arms.  This is especially useful in their clerical and magistrative capacities.  When exercising these, their seal on official documents, and official letterheads should include the coat of arms of the emitting authority.  This way, a relic, a baptism, marriage or death certificate can all be ensigned with a seal which can verify their authenticity for posterity.

All Americans, again, are free to design and use the ones they please... well, in a way.  As with everything, there are rules and conventions which ought to be followed.  For this reason, it is best to consult an expert in heraldry to either design one for you or advise you as to the correct way to go about it.  People who proceed by themselves tend to overcrowd the field trying to represent every aspect of their life - a veritable curriculum vitae! - which defeats the purpose of a clear and concise depiction which can be easily distinguished from other samples.  That is one of the essential aims of heraldic achievements: to identify you and your state without actually writing out your name.  There is also a further problem to avoid: assuming the arms of someone else! Another would be: using external ornaments which belong to a hierarchy not one's own.  So consult us directly if you would like to design a coat of arms for personal or official use.  We can readily help you through the process ourselves, guide you to other reputable designers or the pertinent state agency if you live in one of the countries with a College of Arms or other such regulatory bodies.  In any case, we do love embroidering these on vestments!  Painting them on board-paper or canvas is also a possibility.  Here are some samples of the ones we have embroidered for other armigerous priests:

You can see more at http://klavecentesca.com/gallery.html  All we do is custom - and yet, affordable! For it should be accessible to those in the good service.

But without further ado, though, we leave you with the arms we've recently designed and illuminated for a local priest: The Reverend Father Mark Andrew Jones, BSG,  as Rector of Saint Nicholas.

Father Mark Andrew's arms are canting his christian names by depicting the symbols of Saint Mark and Saint Andrew.  The scales of justice recall his profession in the law before and beyond answering his priestly vocation.  Over all, is the ecclesiastical hat which denotes his clerical state, and the two tassels that hang from the cords on each side, his hierarchy as Rector.  The motto is an homage to the Brotherhood of Saint Gregory, to which he has made vows.

To close: the blazon itself.  This is the coded language from which any other herald should be able to replicate his coat of arms henceforth.

SHIELD: Per fess I: Gules, St Mark's winged-lion passant Or, halo and book Argent;
II: Azure, Saint Andrew's cross Argent with a scales Or.
EXTERNAL ORNAMENTS: Galero with 2 tassels from cords on each side, Sable.
MOTTO: Soli Deo Gloria