Of Mitres and Men II

Previously, we spoke about the antiquity of the mitre.  Back when it was plain even on the most solemn of celebrations (here).  Now, let's explore some of the trends in adornment it picked up through the centuries.

ORNAMENTATION: I
THE MITRA PRETIOSA

The ornamentation of the mitre can take many forms.  The first known was the addition of the titulus (vertical band) and the circulus - the horizontal one that runs along the bottom edge.  Of this type, are the oldest extant mitres scattered throughout certain lucky cathedral museums in Europe - often rescued from old tombs and restored for exhibition by textile curators.

This modality has remained popular from the beginning of the last millennium until the present day.

Pope Francis makes almost exclusive use of these even on the most solemn of feasts - Easter and Christmas - which is quite correct even if admittedly, we'd love to see more of the wearable works of art in the Papal Sacristy in good use...

The perpendicular bands signify this is a "mitra pretiosa" even if no other embellishment is present.  If you are a bishop, it is likely your work-horse mitre.  It works on all occasions when the simplex is not called for, since it may even be used during Lent and Advent which otherwise calls for the mitra auriphrygiata in the Official Rubrics.

One step above in embelishment is encountered in the 12, 13 and 1400s.  It is the same mitra pretiosa but this time with at least two rondels or "jewels" on the white spaces.  At this period, we also begin seeing mitres of colours besides white  - which Leovigildus would probably disapprove of - as does the Roman Caeremoniale Episcoporum, most emphatically by the 1700s.   

Eventually these jewels proliferated - but the titulus & circulus remained:

And then, we have the last set of mitrae pretiosae...  where they no longer have the distinguishing titulus & circulus, but instead, showcase a veritable garden of jewels strewn throughout. They were specially common from the 1700s on, like the fiddleback chasubles, which makes them the most Roman in taste.  Indeed, right before Vatican II, every western bishop of the Roman Rite (aka Tridentine Rite, and now Extraordinary Form) would have had at least one for the most solemn of occasions.

Depending on the style of vestments you wear, the architecture of the basilica or cathedral... some are more appropriate than others, though technically, they are all the same: mitrae pretiosae.

Stay tuned for: 

THE MITRA AURIPHRYGIATA  

&

OF MITRES AND WOMEN

... next week!

Of Mitres and Men: I

The title of the post will become clear at a later date, but for now, let's focus on that headdress par excellence of the episcopal order in the Western Church: the mitre.

Supposedly, it didn't come about until the tenth or eleventh century... or so, scholars and most liturgists capriciously repeat... quoting each other... over and over... as they are wont to do.

Already in the seventh century, Saint Isidore (yes, the Patron Saint of the Internet) had described them within his encyclopedic works.  And no, this isn't another case of << "The problem with internet quotes is that they can't be checked" - Abraham Lincoln >>  You can go to Spain and see it written in parchment and smelling of that moldy musk that only centuries-old manuscripts can afford... yet to prevent possible bubonic plague, or incarceration for doing the good old "scratch and sniff" on a priceless manuscript... here's a web-link to the first transcribed text by persons who have already gone through the motions:

The translation being along the lines of: << 6: To the priestly state also belonged the cidaris, which is called a mitre by many. >>

Cidaris [from the Greek Kidaris] was an ancient ceremonial headdress worn in Persia.  Here, it is the name used for the hat worn by bishops. It should be noted that sacerdotes, which correctly translated means priests, was used in Spain to mean bishops - for these were considered "priests of the first order" (as in: they embodied the fullness of the priesthood) - whereas the "priests of the second order" were properly termed presbyters.  Such it is in the Liber Ordinum, Missals, and other extant texts.

By the ninth century, we hear another well documented mention of the mitre-cidaris.  This time the writer is Leovigild, a presbyter from Cordoba, who wrote a treatise on the vestments of the Catholic clergy in Spain titled "De Habitu Clericorum" - which you can reach here by downloading the pdf from the Cervantes site.

The bit that interests us at the moment, though, is this:

Which translated means: << In the episcopal ordination, the bishops use a cidaris ... and in the solemn festivities, it is placed on their head... >>

Leovigild also says that the pure-white cidaris-mitre symbolizes the white-hair of old age (canitie), and hence, why the headdress is placed on the newly-elected pontiffs [presumably as a symbol of the wisdom accumulated by those who come to have a white head...] with these words:

Inde qum in clero talis fuerit qualis apostolus designabit inuentus cidarim mundam fibrisque perfusa super caput eius inponitur ut honorem senectutis plene inter collegas uteri uideatur et uenerationem canitie ut dictum est ab hominibus tribuatur senectus inquid Sarae prolis uenerabilis est non diuturna neque annorum numero conputata cani sunt autem sensus hominis et etas senectutis uita inmaculata.  Ob hanc rem canitie similis episcopi ponitur capite et a candore eius equm est uertix ipsius ornare. 

And with that, we come to the first mitres... already in use some three centuries before they show up in Rome.

These were white, with red fringe hanging from the lappets, as are still used to this day.  The difference is, of course, that though originally these simple mitres were used for the most solemn and festive of occasions, through the centuries, they have been relegated to be used at funerals, and by those persons privileged by the Pope to wear a mitre albeit not being ordained-bishops.

It is also worn by bishops in choir, and when acting as as concelebrants - while the principal bishop or archbishop makes use of a more ornate version which we will discuss in another post.

Cardinals, instead of the plain white-linen mitre, are themselves privileged to one made of white damask.

But what did the Popes wear before adopting the mitre?



In Rome, the popes used a camelaucium.  This has more in common with the eastern-rite mitres (before they themselves took on the bulbous form common today).  Originally, it was a hard cap inherited from the use of the Imperial court in Byzantium.  Pre-schism, of course...


With time, it developed into the two most recognizable, and exclusive, headdresses of the papacy: the tiara, and the camauro of red velvet lined in ermine.  The first, used for the liturgy, and the latter for less ceremonious occasions. The present pope prefers not to use these, so here's Saint John XXIII to illustrate 'The History of Rome':

In sum, the mitre indeed became widespread by the turn of the millennium after Rome adopted it... But they were already used 300 years earlier... by bishops in Spain - at the very least.

Pentecost Green! No, Red. No, Green! :)

Ever since Easter began, we've been busy making vestments in red.  That is the colour for Pentecost in the Roman Rite which practically everyone follows today in the West.

 The reasoning for the red is well documented in every liturgical book printed since at least the 1500s ... and even Wikipedia.  The green, however, is less obvious when one directly associates the holy ghost with red masses.

Green's use  is explained with the descent of the Holy Spirit beginning the period in which bishops went out and evangelized the peoples... in other words, the beginning of Ordinary Time in the Liturgical Year.  Hence follows, that the colour of bishops is green and why the galero on their coats of arms, seat covers and cushions are also by default green.   [Eventually, western-rite bishops began to wear purple (and the rochet, for example) as part of the now well-established privilege of being members of the Roman Pontiff's household.  Monsignori, who may or may not be bishops, thus, also wear purple by the privilege which affiliates them to the Papal household.]  Green represented the time when to carry out the pastoral visits by the bishops - when the fields themselves were green with life.  Green "cassocks" and "hoods" went out of history long ago for bishops, but the vestments and some paraphernalia remained.

Now that some context has been established, here is a rather magnificent set of paraments, presently at The Louvre, which were commissioned for  L'Ordre du Saint Esprit in the 16th century - whose major feast day was: Pentecost!  As you may appreciate, it is green, and replete with the flames associated with the descent of the holy ghost.

On this image one can see the Throne dais whose baldachin has the dove in the centre and the prie-dieu cover bears the royal arms embroidered in the front.  On the rear, the altar frontal, dossal and baldachin can also be seen.  The ceremonial robes of the Knights and Officers of the order also bear a small cape to match, in green, above the long black mantle.
Next, is an image of these pieces in use, during the King's reception of the oath from a new member: The bird which is in reality embroidered on the ceiling of the king's baldachin, is represented as hovering over the sovereign's head in the painting:

L'Ordre du Saint Esprit was established in 1578 by King Henry III in commemoration of having been elected King of Poland, and then inheriting the throne of France, coinciding with the feasts of Pentecost of 1573 and 1574 respectively.

Here can be appreciated the detail of the flames of the green camail (above) and of the overall effect of altar frontal (below) which also bears the King's heraldic achievement of a royal crown over the arms of France, and of the Polish-Lithuanian commonwealth.  They are circled by the collars of L'Ordre du Saint Michel, and the new Ordre du Saint Esprit.

So there you have it.  Green Vestments and Paraments used at the Royal Court of France for the Feast of Pentecost according to the Parisian Use of the Gallican Rite.  The Gothispanic (aka Mozarabic) Rite also uses green for this feast in the west.

The Eastern rites too, use green:  

Some, still deck the halls with green branches, flowers and trees:

And others go still further and "carpet" their churches with greenery as was attested by the Muslim chronicler, Almakkari, when referring to the Gothispanic mass already in the IX century.

Below, that practice still seen in Romania:

Interesting, yes?

Becket Chasuble In Red, Lined in Royal Blue

Recently, we were commissioned to make this Becket-style Low mass set.

Becket-style vestments usually take their inspiration from one of the extant chasubles that belonged to the 12c English Martyr himself.  The most famous one is that held in the Treasury at Sens Cathedral because of the particular pattern in which the orphrey is laid on the chasuble's front and back.  This, we took as our starting point.

As with every one of our projects, the design ends up being a collaborative process. Father Patrick Allen, for whom the set was made, decided it would be more useful to reduce some of the volume by curtailing the sides up to the wrists.  The original was itself a slightly modified conical chasuble which is not recommendable for celebrating a low mass where the priest is who turns the pages of the missal, for example, so as to prevent knocking over the chalice and such.  Functionality is paramount when celebrating the mass - especially when not attended by a small legion of altar servers, as in yesteryear, to hold back the sides of your chasuble out of the way and rearrange to reveal your hands whenever the extra fabric slides past them.

With that in mind, a red exterior with a royal blue interior was the colour scheme chosen.  The red is particularly inspired by Saint Thomas Becket himself, a martyr who will be celebrated henceforth with these vestments.  The red also being appropriate for the upcoming Whitsunday, Masses for the Holy Spirit and every other martyr in the calendar.  The royal blue interior offers a nice contrast, and recalls the light which shines through the colored-glass windows.

Though it wasn't designed to be reversible...  inside-out it wouldn't be a bad choice for an improvised Sarum-blue Advent Sunday!  Or Monday... whatever appropriate.

But enough improvisation.  Once again, here it is the chasuble, but this time with an appareled amice we featured here which would finish the look.  An appareled alb would also be a definite possibility to round things off.

Lastly, we'd like to leave you with an image of the maniple and stole.

These too were inspired by the original ones at Sens, in the shape and pattern of the embroidery on the extremities. Because this is a low mass set, we kept the embroideries simple with only a few, tiny, metal beads for embellishment.  Works nicely though, wouldn't you say?

Would you like different colours or details on yours?  Contact us and we'd love to collaborate on it! :)

Obtaining a New Coat of Arms & Americans' Right to Freely Do So.

Today we would like to highlight one of the services we provide.  Namely, the design of new coats of arms for prelates of the Catholic, Episcopal, Lutheran and other denominations, who in virtue of their office, are entitled to assume coats of arms in the United States, distinguished by the ecclesiastical hat, crosier or mitre, as may be the particular case.

In the U.S., all free citizens are allowed to assume arms.   This fact goes beyond a discussion of the Second Amendment of the Constitution which states "the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed" which is more generally referred to in political discussions of a different nature - about firearms primarily - which will not be entered here.

A coat of arms, however, does stem from a tradition in which a shield was wielded as a defensive weapon.  In the class-conscious societies prior to the American Revolution of 1776, these were the exclusive right of a privileged few only: royalty, the titled nobility and the lower nobility.  Merchants, farmers, burgers and peasants were generally excluded from the right of this sort of defensive weapon: the shield.  In some societies, like the Netherlands, Switzerland, and even France, some individuals were allowed arms albeit not belonging to the nobility.   These were called "armes roturiers" for yeomen and "burgher arms" when borne by common citizens.

It is this latter type of arms which all Americans are by law, entitled to assume.  Why assume?  Because unlike in England, Scotland or Canada - where the respective Colleges of Arms GRANTS you a coat of arms- in places where no authority holds that monopoly, arms are ASSUMED by the interested party.

To be fair, today the process of obtaining a blazon is less restrictive in Queen Elizabeth II's realms than in yesteryear.  Whereas before one needed to prove to be a descendant with a proper claim to bear the arms once granted to an ancestor, or via a special grace from the monarch to  even be eligible, today, any subject of those respective realms  can apply for a new design.  If you are a subject to one of these Kingdoms: that is still the only way to sport a coat of arms.  It also doesn't guarantee that your application will be accepted.

Prelates, from a simple chaplain to the Popes themselves, are also by tradition entitled to use arms.  This is especially useful in their clerical and magistrative capacities.  When exercising these, their seal on official documents, and official letterheads should include the coat of arms of the emitting authority.  This way, a relic, a baptism, marriage or death certificate can all be ensigned with a seal which can verify their authenticity for posterity.

All Americans, again, are free to design and use the ones they please... well, in a way.  As with everything, there are rules and conventions which ought to be followed.  For this reason, it is best to consult an expert in heraldry to either design one for you or advise you as to the correct way to go about it.  People who proceed by themselves tend to overcrowd the field trying to represent every aspect of their life - a veritable curriculum vitae! - which defeats the purpose of a clear and concise depiction which can be easily distinguished from other samples.  That is one of the essential aims of heraldic achievements: to identify you and your state without actually writing out your name.  There is also a further problem to avoid: assuming the arms of someone else! Another would be: using external ornaments which belong to a hierarchy not one's own.  So consult us directly if you would like to design a coat of arms for personal or official use.  We can readily help you through the process ourselves, guide you to other reputable designers or the pertinent state agency if you live in one of the countries with a College of Arms or other such regulatory bodies.  In any case, we do love embroidering these on vestments!  Painting them on board-paper or canvas is also a possibility.  Here are some samples of the ones we have embroidered for other armigerous priests:

You can see more at http://klavecentesca.com/gallery.html  All we do is custom - and yet, affordable! For it should be accessible to those in the good service.

But without further ado, though, we leave you with the arms we've recently designed and illuminated for a local priest: The Reverend Father Mark Andrew Jones, BSG,  as Rector of Saint Nicholas.

Father Mark Andrew's arms are canting his christian names by depicting the symbols of Saint Mark and Saint Andrew.  The scales of justice recall his profession in the law before and beyond answering his priestly vocation.  Over all, is the ecclesiastical hat which denotes his clerical state, and the two tassels that hang from the cords on each side, his hierarchy as Rector.  The motto is an homage to the Brotherhood of Saint Gregory, to which he has made vows.

To close: the blazon itself.  This is the coded language from which any other herald should be able to replicate his coat of arms henceforth.

SHIELD: Per fess I: Gules, St Mark's winged-lion passant Or, halo and book Argent;
II: Azure, Saint Andrew's cross Argent with a scales Or.
EXTERNAL ORNAMENTS: Galero with 2 tassels from cords on each side, Sable.
MOTTO: Soli Deo Gloria

A Gothic Apparelled Amice...not gothic: Gothic.

Today, when the word "gothic" is used, it refers to the art and architecture of the 12th thru 16th centuries - rose windows and turrets, gargoyles and peaked arches.  But there was a different Gothic before that - and this is a prime example of it.

This is an appareled amice we've made with the favourite motif of Recceswinth - better known as FLAVIUS RECCESWINTHUS REX GOTHORUM who ruled the Gothic Kingdom of Toledo over what is today Spain, Portugal, and Southern France between the years 653 and 672 of our common era.

This motive is repeated in a church he ordered be erected in honour of Saint John the Baptist after being healed by the waters of the locality; also, on his crown gifted ex voto to God, and a processional cross which are both today on public display by the Spanish State after being found buried in Guarrazar.   A set of matching book-cover plates on an early version of his Liber Judicum, illuminted with the same motif on all pages with headings, and a signet ring with his effigy are also extant in the patrimony of his descendants.

The amice apparel, really a stiff liturgical collar, we've made in blue and white recalling the sapphires and pearls of the jeweled pieces available from the Gothic King.  Furthermore, it is embellished with small pearls, since it is a most festive garment to be used in a chapel of white marble, lapis lazuli and gilt-wood.

 

As you may notice, it resembles the appareled amice of St. Thomas Becket at Sens.   Some version of that is hopefully - forthcoming.

Any takers?  We do like a challenge!

OF PASTORAL STOLES

This is a wider-than-usual stole used to give blessings at Weddings, Baptisms and other sacramentals outside of the Mass instead of the usual stole and chasuble. This vestment is worn directly above choir dress, as opposed to the regular stole which is vested over at least the alb.

It is also donned to impart a blessing on pilgrims of faith received in audience by a prelate or when a priest or bishop will bless a home, agricultural field or village on his journeys. For this reason, sometimes it is referred to as a Blessing Stole.

The Pope uses his to receive Catholic heads of State, and also to impart his Urbi et Orbi Blessings from the Balcony on Easter and Christmas Day. All priests - from the local curate to the Bishop of Rome himself, make use of these.

This particular Pastoral Stole in Liturgical White we've made for a Bishop - hence the green lining, proper to that dignity. His arms and other devices embroidered will be featured at a later post - after he receives it later this month from a grateful member of his congregation.

Who knows? Maybe the recipient is you! If you're a bishop. Otherwise, you could always have one made by contacting us - perhaps as a gift to your local priest or friend in the episcopate.